Endless rows of crashing waves, a rocky beach, and a crumbling fort set the scene as a gentle sea breeze rustles the palm trees along the tropical island shore.
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The sound of Spanish conversation drifts over from a nearby group of diners, and as I walk closer, an emerald-green iguana scurries over the blue-tinged cobblestones. This is the United States, but not as you know it.
Puerto Rico shares more in common with its Caribbean neighbors than with New York or Los Angeles. US dollars are the currency of choice, and getting there from the mainland is super easy. And with its largest city celebrating a significant anniversary, now is the perfect time to explore and discover the unique charm of this fascinating island.
An Eternal Allure
Puerto Rico’s location as the easternmost large island in the Caribbean made it a crucial gateway for ships traveling from Europe to the Americas. As a result, it boasts one of the oldest European settlements in the New World.
The capital city of San Juan was founded in 1521 and after last year’s 500th anniversary celebrations were cancelled due to Covid, 2022 has been a year-long celebration for the charming old town.
Measuring just two miles across at its widest point and spanning no more than a few blocks from north to south, the grid of narrow cobblestone streets in this historic settlement is surrounded by two impressive citadels.
A Multicultural Caribbean Hub
Puerto Rican culture is a dynamic blend shaped by the influences of the native Taíno, Spanish, African, and American inhabitants. English is widely spoken, and my attempts at speaking Spanish are often met with a friendly smile.
This multicultural mix is also reflected in the island’s eclectic cuisine, with dishes such as the popular mofongo – a variation of West African fufu made with fried and mashed plantains seasoned with crisp pork skin and sofrito (a flavorful sauce made with garlic, onion, various chili peppers, spices, and herbs), and often stuffed with protein.
Mofongo can be found everywhere, from fine-dining restaurants to humble roadside stalls, and almost every local I meet tells me that their favorite version comes from an old family recipe. However, I often hear that the second-best mofongo on the island can be found at El Jibarito.
Entering this unassuming restaurant feels like stepping into the owner’s living room and the cooking is just as homely, with a focus on the local comfort food known as comida criolla or Creole cuisine – which includes crunchy fritters, slow-cooked stews and juicy marinated flank steak, all accompanied by mounds of rich, garlicky mofongo.
Puerto Rico’s adventurous history is reflected in its local traditions and the island’s status as the world’s largest producer of rum. Bacardi is the most famous brand, but it is not the oldest – that title belongs to Ron del Barrilito, where a tour of the barrel houses filled with the aroma of toffee and Christmas cake ends with a tasting that includes a smooth and complex 35-year-old spirit.
The more common white rum found in the lively bars throughout the city is used in drinks such as the Piña Colada. This drinkable dessert is a local invention and can be found almost everywhere, but it is notably absent from the menu at La Factoria, a labyrinthine venue with half a dozen themed bars offering elegant twists on classic cocktails such as their signature Lavender Mule.
Even more captivating is the live salsa band at the central venue, where intense Cuban rhythms, dazzling flute solos, and lively call-and-response vocals inspire a packed dance floor that stays busy late into the night.
Beyond The City
Beyond the walls of Old San Juan, the modern city stretches out with a population of 2.5 million. Beachside suburbs like Condado and Parque are home to high-rise hotels and more modest Airbnbs, just minutes away from the wide sandy beaches. But venturing beyond the city limits reveals a completely different landscape.
The road to the southeast leads to a spine of mountains in the island’s center and the only tropical rainforest in the United States. Hidden by low-hanging clouds, this dense jungle is filled with thundering waterfalls and hidden swimming holes, where giant butterflies flutter by and the air is filled with the high-pitched chirps of invisible coqui frogs.
Further east, the terrain descends again and I reach the coast at Fajardo, a small town whose population increases each night with tourists eager to witness a remarkable natural phenomenon. Kayaking Puerto Rico is one of a dozen operators that lead flotillas through a path in the mangroves to a bay filled with bioluminescent algae.
Once there, we float in the darkness of a new moon, the stars twinkling in the velvety blackness mirrored by magical swirls of light in the water as each paddle stroke is illuminated for a few brief moments before it fades.
So, What Are You Waiting For?
It’s hard not to be amazed every time it happens, and it serves as a reminder that Puerto Rico isn’t remarkable solely because of the country it belongs to – this enchanting island is a place of wonder that is more than capable of standing on its own.
San Juan serves as the primary point of entry into Puerto Rico, with direct flights to over 25 cities in the United States. There are no immigration procedures between the mainland and Puerto Rico, and the currency used is the US dollar.
It is recommended to budget as you would for visiting a smaller US city. Hurricane season runs from June to September and the months around Christmas can be crowded with US tourists, making April to June the best time to visit.
For more information, visit: discoverpuertorico.com
